Community effort brings lost, blind dog home for Christmas

Grapengeters and Abby

The Grapengeter children, 6-year-old Ava, 10-year-old Greg and 9-year-old Shane, gather around their dog Abby, who is blind and went missing more than a week ago during heavy snow storms. Thanks to the help of a number of big-hearted people, the dog was rescued and reunited with them on Sunday, just in time for Christmas.

FAIRBANKS - McKenzie Grapengeter was resigned to the fact that her family would never see their blind 8-year-old dog, Abby, again.

Abby, who they raised up from an animal shelter puppy, usually spent afternoons sniffing around their five-acre lot off 14-mile Chena Hot Springs Road, but went missing on Dec. 13 during the worst part of the recent snow storms.

The family searched and searched the neighborhood, but as hours turned to days and temperatures plummeted to a frigid 40 below zero, Grapengeter wasn’t so sure they’d find the short-haired brown-and-white mixed breed dog who began bumping into household fixtures a few years ago when she went blind.

But then, on Sunday, she got a call.

Abby had been found. A week after she had gone missing, during nights where the mercury dipped well below minus 40, she had been found more than 10 miles away by trails.

“It’s a miracle, there’s no other words to describe it,” she said, emotion choking her voice and tears coming to her eyes. “We never expected to have her to be returned safe and alive. She’s blind. It’s a miracle. It’s amazing.”

As with many other members of the community, musher and veterinarian Mark May said he saw Abby curled up on the trail while running his team on Wednesday afternoon, but wasn’t able to stop to grab her.

“This poor little dog had no coat and it had melted a hole about 10 or 8 inches deep,” he said. “It ran with us for about a mile on the way home before she fell off the pace, but I had a big dog team so I couldn’t grab it. I said boy I hope it finds somebody’s house.”

The next day Abby found a house, May's house, which is down near Nordale and Freeman Roads. Some community members had planned to set live traps to bring her in, but there she was, sitting at the edge of his dog lot, he said.

“Everybody just assumed it was some kind of scardey cat, but there it was in front of the door in our dog lot and it was blind,” he said. “It was sitting there, all the way from 14 mile on the winter trail down into this neighborhood, I guess by just sniffing, so I picked it up and brought it in.”

Other than being hungry and cold, May said he was amazed that she didn’t have any signs of frostbite from the week in the cold.

“It’s amazing,” he said. “No frozen ears, no frozen toes, she’ll probably go  back home and it’ll business as usual. She’s no worse for wear but quite an adventure.”

But without a tag or microchip, May couldn’t find the Grapengeters. That’s when the community mobilized, sharing the dog’s story and description through emails and Facebook posts. And before long, the Grapengeter’s neighbors recognized the dog.

On Christmas Eve, Abby was warmly cuddling with her family under the tree, a stomach filled with hearty dog food and a new tag around her neck.

“We’re so so grateful for all their hard work,” McKenzie Grapengeter said, the tears still streaming. “This community is so amazing, we would have never seen her again if it wasn’t been for the people. They've given us the most amazing Christmas gift we could ever ask for and we are all so grateful to them

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RABBITS AS PETS

Rabbits make rewarding pets for adults and supervised older children but are not suitable for younger children. They’re naturally social, intelligent and inquisitive so can become friendly and confident around people if gently handled from a young age, although they do not naturally enjoy being cuddled. Rabbits need loving, patient owners who are prepared to spend plenty of time with them, and provide plenty of space and lots of opportunities to play. They live for 8–12 years so are a long-term commitment.

I need company?

Rabbits should not be kept alone. They are happiest when they have a friendly rabbit for company. A good pairing is a neutered male and a neutered female, especially if they’re brought up together. New pairs should be carefully introduced to each other under expert advice from a vet or behaviourist.

Rabbits should not live with guinea pigs because rabbits and guinea pigs have different diets and communicate in different ways. Rabbits can bully or injure guinea pigs, and can pass diseases on to them.

Where do I need to live?

Rabbits, whether kept indoors or outdoors need a lot of space, a big shelter and a spacious living area.

The shelter is somewhere for your rabbits to rest, hide and feel safe. This area needs enough space for all your rabbits to live together and be able to have space to spend time apart if they wish.

The living area should be large enough for your rabbits to run, jump, hop around, explore and forage. This area needs places to hide, platforms to jump up on and items to explore like tunnels, boxes, large terracotta plant pots and willow toys. Your rabbits should ideally have access to the living area at all times, and at least in the early morning, late afternoon and overnight, when they are most likely to graze and socialise.

All areas must be large enough to allow rabbits to stand on their hind legs without their ears touching the roof, to turn around easily, to lie fully stretched out, to run and to take several hops in a row. Accommodation should be well ventilated, draught-free, protected from extremes of temperature and secure to avoid rabbits escaping and stop predators getting in.

Outdoor homes should be weatherproof, with a raised floor to keep them dry and improve ventilation. Indoor shelters should have natural light and ventilation.

House Rabbits & Play Pen

Most rabbits can be kept outdoors all year round, but others can live happily indoors or be brought indoors for winter, provided you meet their needs. You should provide regular chances to exercise, grass to graze (e.g. grown in trays), and opportunities to dig. Make your home rabbit-proof by covering electrical wiring, removing poisonous household plants such as lillies and supervising your rabbits, or using a large rabbit playpen for unsupervised playtime. Before getting house rabbits always consider other pets in the household.

Litter

Rabbits can be litter trained by filling litter trays with newspaper and hay/straw, shredded paper or cat litter (e.g. non-clumping and non-expanding natural wood or paper-based types). Put some soiled litter in the trays and place them in the areas your rabbits naturally use to go to the toilet. Always put litter trays away from where your rabbits sleep.

Bedding

Shelters should contain lots of absorbent bedding materials (such as a layer of newspaper or dust extracted woodshavings topped with shredded paper, dust-free hay or straw) to keep your rabbits comfortable and warm. During winter, plenty of extra hay and barley straw will help to insulate your rabbits’ home.

Cleaning

Replace soiled bedding and litter daily, and thoroughly clean the entire housing weekly using a pet-safe disinfectant. Rabbits should be removed from their accommodation during cleaning until all areas are dry. Cleaning can upset rabbits by removing their own scent, so place some dry used litter and bedding back into their litter tray and home to make sure some familiar scent remains.

Diet - What do I eat?

Rabbits need a balanced diet which is high in fibre. Sudden changes to their diet should be avoided, as this can cause fatal stomach upsets.

Hay and grass

Hay (and ideally grass) must always be available for your rabbits to eat - it helps maintain healthy digestion and wears your rabbits’ teeth down naturally. Putting hay in racks off the ground can prevent it from becoming soiled. Do not feed grass clippings – rabbits should eat the grass as it grows.

Specialist foods

Hay forms the majority of your rabbits’ diet, but specialist rabbit foods can be fed in addition to hay to provide additional nutrition. We recommend feeding pellets/nuggets, as rabbits often pick bits out of muesli mixes, so they miss out on essential nutrients – this is known as selective feeding.

We feed Pets at Home nuggets to our rabbits while they’re with us, and recommend that you continue to do so when you take them home. If you do wish to change their diet, introduce the new food gradually over about 10 to 14 days.

Greens
Rabbits can be given small quantities of fresh, washed leafy greens daily such as broccoli, kale, fresh herbs and freshly picked dandelion leaves (again, introduce any new foods gradually). Fruit and root vegetables like carrots are high in sugar, so give them only in small amounts as occasional treats. Never give your rabbits any frozen foods.

Water
Rabbits need fresh water every day in a heavy based bowl or bottle. You should check your rabbits’ water at least twice a day, and make sure it does not freeze if your rabbits live outdoors over winter.

Behavior - What I need to do

Like us, rabbits can easily get bored. They need to be able to forage, graze, chew, hide, dig, run, hop and jump. To help, you should try:

• hiding healthy treats around their home
• scattering pellets or greens into the hay
• putting pellets in food balls or puzzle feeders
• providing lots of natural wood or willow toys they can chew
• provide an area in which they can dig
• give large cardboard tubes and other rabbit toys so they can explore and play give them platforms to jump up on to.

Rabbits need constant access to hiding places like large boxes, for when they feel frightened.

How to handle me

Rabbits are prey animals so do not naturally enjoy being handled, but they need to be health checked and groomed regularly. To build your rabbits’ confidence, sit on the ground with them whilst offering them small, healthy treats frequently so they associate you with tasty food. When they’re used to being stroked, try slowly picking them up by placing one hand under your rabbit’s chest and the other hand under their bottom. Hold your pet close to you so it feels secure and cannot fall. Rabbits can be injured if handled incorrectly or dropped, so children should always be supervised and must never be allowed to pick rabbits up by themselves.

Keeping me fit and healthy

Neutering
Rabbits should be neutered to avoid breeding and reduce the risks of fighting, urine spraying and some cancers. It is known that many female rabbits will develop fatal womb cancer if they are not neutured, so even rabbits kept on their own or with another female companion should be neutered. Ask a vet for advice.

Rabbit vaccinations
Rabbits must be vaccinated against two killer diseases – Myxomatosis and Rabbit Haemorrhagic Disease (RHD), usually yearly. Ask your vet about when to get these vaccinations. We recommend insuring your rabbits to ensure you are covered for any unexpected veterinary fees. Microchipping your rabbits is also advised in case they get lost and some insurers offer discounts if they are chipped.

Health problems
Check your rabbit for signs of illness or injury daily. Healthy rabbits are alert with bright eyes, dry nostrils and clean, shiny coats. Their droppings should be small, firm pellets. Take them to your vet at least yearly and immediately if you suspect your rabbit is in pain, injured, showing signs of illness or developing any changes in behaviour (e.g. loss of appetite, appears listless, coughing, runny eyes or nose, diarrhoea or aggression).

Flystrike
Check your rabbits’ bottoms daily (or twice daily during warm weather), and clean them if necessary. Otherwise urine staining or droppings can attract flies which lay eggs on the rabbit and cause fatal ‘flystrike’. If your rabbit has a dirty bottom frequently, seek advice from your vet.

Dental care
If rabbits’ teeth grow too long, they become very painful and make eating difficult. Hay should always be availble for your rabbits to eat as it helps to wear their teeth down. Check your rabbits’ front teeth regularly and go to your vet if you are concerned.

Grooming and nail clipping
Long-haired rabbits need grooming daily. Short-haired rabbits can be groomed weekly. Regular grooming helps you bond with your rabbits and spot health problems. Your vet can show you how to clip your rabbits’ nails regularly.

Travelling
Travelling and moving house are stressful and can make your rabbit seriously ill. Transport your rabbits, together with their friends, in a secure plastic carrier. Put something familiar smelling inside the carrier and in their new home.

Health and hygiene
All pets can carry diseases, some of which can pass to people. Always clean your hands with soap and water after handling or feeding your pets and ensure children do the same. Likewise after cleaning their home and equipment. It is best to avoid kissing your pet.

The pet ownership duty is ensure that pets are cared for properly and their needs are met:

1 for somewhere suitable to live,
2 for a proper diet, including fresh water,
3 for the ability to express normal behaviour,
4 to be housed with, or apart from, other animals
5 for protection from pain, suffering, injury and disease.

Are Rabbits The Right Pet for You?

Rabbits are a big commitment. Ask yourself the following questions to see if rabbits are the right pets for you and your household.

Who are the rabbits for? 

Rabbits are not suitable for young children, and even if older children look after them, remember you will be responsible for ensuring they are cared for properly every day.

Have you thought about the future? 

Rabbits are a long-term commitment and can live for 8–12 years. If you’re getting rabbits for older children, have you thought about what will happen when they leave home?

Do you have the time for rabbits? Caring for rabbits takes a lot of time each day as they will need cleaning out, feeding, grooming and interacting with.

Do you have the space for rabbits? Rabbit housing will take up a large area of your house and/or garden. Are you prepared to sacrifice this space? Rabbits can be messy and destructive if kept in the house.

Can you afford rabbits? Rabbits are not cheap pets. Consider the costs of yearly vaccinations, neutering, other veterinary fees, housing, holiday care, food, bedding and toys. Remember that you will need to increase this cost for two rabbits as new research shows costs for two rabbits are not double that of one and that rabbits can live for up to 12 years.

What will you do when you go on holiday?

 Rabbits get stressed by travelling and new surroundings so would prefer to stay in their home whilst you are away. You will need to find a trustworthy and competent person to visit your home and look after your rabbits. This is basic information only, so if you decide you can care for rabbits you’ll need to obtain more detailed information beforehand.

It is important to ensure you can commit to your rabbits forever. However, if in future you can no longer care for a pet you purchased from us, please contact Pets at Home as we will try to rehome them via our in-store Adoption Centres. Never abandon any pet or release them into the wild.

For more information on keeping rabbits happy and healthy visit:
http://www.petsathome.com

PET HAMSTER CARE

What do I need for my pet hamster?

Now that you have decided on a pet hamster you should have all the supplies necessary before bringing your pet home. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need. Remember, hamsters are chewers, wanderers, and burrowers so choose the home accordingly.

Habitat

You will need a cage or aquarium that is at least 15 inches long by 12 inches high for one hamster or two dwarf hamsters. Get the largest size possible. The bigger the cage the happier your pet will be.

• Bedding for the bottom of the cage where your pet can burrow and hide.
• A water bottle.
• A food dish.
• Toys such as an exercise wheel, ramps, and tunnels so your pet hamster can exercise and explore.Hide and sleeping areas for your hamster.
• Food and Supplements
• Hamster food, either pellets or mixed seeds and grain.
• Fresh food like acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips.
• Vitamin, mineral, and calcium supplements.
• Treats to add variety to your pet’s diet.

Food & Diet

The easiest way to make sure your hamster’s diet provides everything he needs is to buy the best prepared food you can find. Then supplement its diet with pieces of fresh fruits and veggies, throwing in an occasional meal worm or cricket. A varied diet is as important to hamsters as it is to people.

Pellets
Pellets are a food where the ingredients are ground up, mixed, and formed into little pieces. The requirement to gnaw on pellets and the balanced nutrition of pellets make them a suitable part of your pet’s diet.

Mixed Seeds & Grain
Mixed seeds & grain are just like they sound, a food mixture of seeds and grains. Some mixed foods include a variety of dried fruits, nuts, and seeds. This type of food provides a variety of choices for your hamster to enjoy and is an excellent part of his diet.

Timothy Hay & Alfalfa
Timothy hay, alfalfa or a mix of the two are a nice addition to the diet. In the wild, hamsters are grass eaters and may enjoy nibbling on some hay. Not all will eat it, but it is worth a try.

Fresh Foods
To add some variety and added nutrition there are many fresh foods your companion may like. Try acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips. The key with fresh food is to supply it in small portions since hamsters store away excess food. Rotten food is not something you want in your pet’s cage.

Snacks & Treats
There is an amazing variety of hamster snacks and treats that you can offer a couple times per week. These treats, although very enjoyable to your hamster, are not a well balanced diet so use them sparingly. Most treats are sweetened foods like seeds, nuts, and dried fruits and vegetables that your pet will love. Alternatives to store bought treats are scrambled or hard boiled eggs, dog biscuits, sugar-free cereal, whole wheat bread, and uncooked pasta. You can even feed him mealworms or crickets.

Dietary Supplements
Commercial hamster food is supposed to have all the nutritional requirements necessary for a healthy pet, but supplements are a good way to guarantee a well balanced diet. Dietary supplements are available with vitamins, minerals, and calcium that come in flavors a hamster will enjoy

Cage & Habitat

Your pet hamster requires a safe cage that provides room to run around, exercise, eat, and sleep. You can provide this as simply or as lavishly as you want as long as the basic requirements are met. When providing a cage you must remember he is a chewer and an excellent escape artist. He can chew through wood or soft plastic, such as the screening on top of tank cages. There are a variety of different habitats that you can choose for your hamster’s home.

Wire Cage

A wired bar cage as an excellent home. Just make certain the bars are close enough together that your hamster can’t wriggle through. Be sure that any door can be securely latched, your pet is capable of moving a sliding door with his teeth and escaping.

Aquarium
A glass aquarium with a screened top can also be used as a home. An aquarium has corners that a hamster likes, it’s high enough to add an exercise wheel, and he can’t climb glass making it almost escape proof.

Tube Cage
Tube cages, like CritterTrail, are expandable habitat’s. With lots of interlocking tubes, wheels, lookouts, and other add-ons, the type of home you can make for your hamster is unlimited. A tube cage can be like a mini playground.

The size of the cage depends on what type and how many hamsters you intend to own. A cage that is 15 inches long by 12 inches high is appropriate for one hamster or two dwarf hamsters. For your pet, bigger is better, so go with the biggest cage possible. The larger the cage, the happier your hamster will be.

Cage Supplies
Once you have picked out the perfect home, you need to fill it with everything he needs to have a happy and healthy life. Sources of food, water, bedding, and toys are all important to your hamster’s well being.

Water Bottle
Your hamster will need a source of fresh water. He will fill up water dishes with whatever he can find in his cage, so a stoppered water bottle that attaches to the cage works best.

Food Dish
A dish for food. Hamsters prefer their food to be near the sleeping area and are hoarders. You can use food dishes, but be aware that he will quickly empty it as he constantly relocates the food.

Bedding & Substrate
Your pet will need a bedding or substrate. They are burrowing creatures and will be much happier if they have something to burrow in. There are many commercial beddings made from wood shavings and pellets made from wood, alfalfa, pecans, sawdust, corncob, walnut, and recycled newspaper. Do not use clumping kitty litter or cedar based shavings. Hamsters eat a portion of their feces as part of their digestive process. Clumping litter can cause intestinal obstruction which could lead to your pet’s death. Aromatic oils in cedar based shavings are irritating to a hamster’s respiratory system.

Sleeping Areas
Your hamster needs a sleeping area and any small container will work. This container must be big enough for ventilation and for your pet to turn around in. It should also be easy to clean or inexpensive enough to throw away and replace if it becomes soiled.

Cleaning Cage Enrichment
Cage enrichment is the toys and items that will keep your pet busy, active, and happy. Things he will enjoy include wheels, pipes, tubes, chew blocks, wooden toys, and balls. Luckily, there are many commercially available hamster toys that will keep him happy.

It is important to clean your pet’s cage about once a week. Replace the substrate and bedding, wash the food bowls, and change the water. You can also wash other parts of the cage that smell with soapy water. Be sure to dry everything before putting items back in the cage. While cleaning, be sure to keep your hamster someplace safe to prevent escape. A trash can, deep bucket, or a bathtub with the drain plugged are good places to temporarily keep your pet.

Health & Illness

A healthy hamster is a happy pet and everyone wants a happy pet. Luckily it is quite easy to make sure your cute friend lives a long and healthy life. A proper diet, fresh water, and a nice, clean habitat, go a long way in preventing illness and injury. You want to make sure his home avoids drafts, excessive heat and dampness, as well as provides exercise and suitable hiding places. Protecting your hamster by carefully handling him and preventing a nasty fall will also keep your pet safe.

Even with quality care, a proper diet, and a wonderful habitat, injuries and illness can occur. In the event of one of these unfortunate occurrences, contacting your veterinarian is always recommended. Signs of illness may be weight loss, loss of appetite, and behavioral changes. Below is a list of the more common issues that can affect a hamster’s health.

Broken bones
For broken bones, isolate your pet and keep him in a cage without a wheel. Do not handle him and make sure you feed him a good diet with a calcium supplement. The break should hopefully heal nicely within two weeks.

Bites
Hamsters do fight with each other and a bite can be one outcome. If a bite does occur, clean the wounded area with peroxide and if the injury leads to infection, contact your veterinarian.

Cheek Pouch Injuries
These injuries can occur during a fight or your hamster may find a sharp object in the cage and cut its cheek pouch.

Abscesses
An abscess can happen when a wound heals over before the infection inside is gone. It can look like a swollen area and will be very tender to the touch. There can be redness of the skin and your hamster may scratch at or around the area.

Teeth
A hamster’s front incisors are designed to rub against each other while nibbling and are suppose to wear evenly, but this doesn't always happen. The unmatched teeth can hinder eating and may grow into the roof of the mouth or cheek pouch.

Eyes
Hamsters do develop eye problems in response to eye injuries or infections. They can also develop cataracts.

Respiratory Infections
Symptoms of respiratory infections are labored breathing, discharge from the nose and eyes, loss of appetite and weight loss.

Gastrointestinal Infections
Symptoms of gastrointestinal infections are a stained tail, diarrhea, lethargy, failure to eat or drink, irritability and ruffled hair.

Fungal Infections
Fungal infections are caused by damp, dirty, housing and inadequate diets.

Heatstroke
Symptoms of heatstroke are heavy breathing and the animal laying on it’s belly. A hamster can die quickly if you don’t take immediate action. Move the cage to a cool spot. Take him out of the cage and run cool water, not cold, over it’s body until it is alert and breathing has slowed. Dry it off gently and place it in a clean dry cage away from any heat to rest. To rehydrate your pet you can use an eyedropper to offer your him water or Pedialyte. Never leave your hamster’s cage by a sunny window, in your car, or an unventilated room.

Breeding & Babies

Breeding & Mating
To breed your hamsters, introduce the female into the male’s cage every evening for four days during her estrus. Estrus is the period of time, usually about 12 hours long, when the female will mate with the male. The female will be receptive if she flattens her body and splays her legs when you stroke her back. Estrus occurs during the night and there may be some minor sparring and tussling between the male and female. Be ready to remove the female if she doesn’t settle down soon and appears to only want to fight with the male. It also helps if the male has an easy to get to place to hide from the female. If mating occurs, keep the pair together for several hours or even overnight.

Gestation & Litter Size
The pregnant female will appear fatter 2 to 3 weeks after mating. She may spend less time wheel running and more time eating. Pregnant females tend to become more aggressive as their due date approaches. The gestation of your hamster varies by type but expect a litter in 18 to 22 days. The hamster litter size is usually in the 4 to 6 range. It can be as few as 3 and as many as 12 depending on the type of hamster. The mother could have many babies but may not raise them all to weaning and it is possible that she may eat some of them.

Birth
Nest building activity increases as does eating, grooming, and digging before giving birth. The female will seem restless and may startle easily. She stands erect as the babies (pups) are born and will sever the umbilical cord on her own. The pups are born at 10-30 minute intervals and the mother will sleep or tidy the nest area between births. The mother will then hold and clean her pups. Make sure she had adequate food and water since she will be very hungry and thirsty after the birth. Do not open the cage to look at the babies for at least two weeks. The mother may interpret this as a threat and eat their young if the cage is disturbed.

Babies
The babies will begin drinking water at 13-15 days of age and eating food between 16-21 days. Make sure they can reach the water bottle and the food dish. Pups huddle with each other, move around together, and eat together. They also play fight. The babies can be successfully weaned from the mother after about 3 weeks. They will be sexually mature at 6-7 weeks of age.

Sexing
Grasp the hamster firmly around the body and lift him upright and tilt his body slightly backwards. The hamster will not be fond of being in this position so he will struggle but don’t worry, you are not hurting him. Look at the genital area. Females have the genital opening and the anus close together. Males have the genital opening separated from the anus by a distance approximately equal to your forefinger. When you hold a male older than five weeks upright, the testes fall down to the edge of the body forming two distinct pale pink lumps on each side of the anus.

Information taking from : http://pethamstercare.com/

DO THEY DESERVE THIS FOR LOVING US ???

SAVING JUST ONE DOG WON`T CHANGE THE WORLD...............

BUT SURELY IT WILL CHANGE THE WORLD FOR THAT ONE DOG.

POOR DOGS

STOP ANIMALS ABUSE!!!!!!!!!

NOT EVERY PERSON KNOWS HOW TO LOVE A DOG. BUT EVERY DOGS KNOWS HOW TO LOVE A PERSON.

WHAT DID THESE POOR DOGS DO SO WRONG TO DESERVE THIS WAY????

MAY THEY REAP WHAT THEY SOW.

HERO PET MART PANDAN 7

KB Scales & Tails Reptiles Show 11/11/2012