What do I need for my pet hamster?
Now that you have decided on a pet hamster you should have all the supplies necessary before bringing your pet home. This care sheet will guide you in having everything you need. Remember, hamsters are chewers, wanderers, and burrowers so choose the home accordingly.
Habitat
You will need a cage or aquarium that is at least 15 inches long by 12 inches high for one hamster or two dwarf hamsters. Get the largest size possible. The bigger the cage the happier your pet will be.
- Bedding for the bottom of the cage where your pet can burrow and hide.
- A water bottle.
- A food dish.
- Toys such as an exercise wheel, ramps, and tunnels so your pet hamster can exercise and explore.Hide and sleeping areas for your hamster.
- Food and Supplements
- Hamster food, either pellets or mixed seeds and grain.
- Fresh food like acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips.
- Vitamin, mineral, and calcium supplements.
- Treats to add variety to your pet’s diet.
Food & Diet
The easiest way to make sure your hamster’s diet provides everything he needs is to buy the best prepared food you can find. Then supplement its diet with pieces of fresh fruits and veggies, throwing in an occasional meal worm or cricket. A varied diet is as important to hamsters as it is to people.
Pellets
Pellets are a food where the ingredients are ground up, mixed, and formed into little pieces. The requirement to gnaw on pellets and the balanced nutrition of pellets make them a suitable part of your pet’s diet.
Pellets are a food where the ingredients are ground up, mixed, and formed into little pieces. The requirement to gnaw on pellets and the balanced nutrition of pellets make them a suitable part of your pet’s diet.
Mixed Seeds & Grain
Mixed seeds & grain are just like they sound, a food mixture of seeds and grains. Some mixed foods include a variety of dried fruits, nuts, and seeds. This type of food provides a variety of choices for your hamster to enjoy and is an excellent part of his diet.
Mixed seeds & grain are just like they sound, a food mixture of seeds and grains. Some mixed foods include a variety of dried fruits, nuts, and seeds. This type of food provides a variety of choices for your hamster to enjoy and is an excellent part of his diet.
Timothy Hay & Alfalfa
Timothy hay, alfalfa or a mix of the two are a nice addition to the diet. In the wild, hamsters are grass eaters and may enjoy nibbling on some hay. Not all will eat it, but it is worth a try.
Timothy hay, alfalfa or a mix of the two are a nice addition to the diet. In the wild, hamsters are grass eaters and may enjoy nibbling on some hay. Not all will eat it, but it is worth a try.
Fresh Foods
To add some variety and added nutrition there are many fresh foods your companion may like. Try acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips. The key with fresh food is to supply it in small portions since hamsters store away excess food. Rotten food is not something you want in your pet’s cage.
To add some variety and added nutrition there are many fresh foods your companion may like. Try acorns, apples, bananas, green beans, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, zucchini, cucumbers, grapes, kale, oranges, peas, spinach, sweet potatoes, and turnips. The key with fresh food is to supply it in small portions since hamsters store away excess food. Rotten food is not something you want in your pet’s cage.
Snacks & Treats
There is an amazing variety of hamster snacks and treats that you can offer a couple times per week. These treats, although very enjoyable to your hamster, are not a well balanced diet so use them sparingly. Most treats are sweetened foods like seeds, nuts, and dried fruits and vegetables that your pet will love. Alternatives to store bought treats are scrambled or hard boiled eggs, dog biscuits, sugar-free cereal, whole wheat bread, and uncooked pasta. You can even feed him mealworms or crickets.
There is an amazing variety of hamster snacks and treats that you can offer a couple times per week. These treats, although very enjoyable to your hamster, are not a well balanced diet so use them sparingly. Most treats are sweetened foods like seeds, nuts, and dried fruits and vegetables that your pet will love. Alternatives to store bought treats are scrambled or hard boiled eggs, dog biscuits, sugar-free cereal, whole wheat bread, and uncooked pasta. You can even feed him mealworms or crickets.
Dietary Supplements
Commercial hamster food is supposed to have all the nutritional requirements necessary for a healthy pet, but supplements are a good way to guarantee a well balanced diet. Dietary supplements are available with vitamins, minerals, and calcium that come in flavors a hamster will enjoy
Cage & Habitat
Your pet hamster requires a safe cage that provides room to run around, exercise, eat, and sleep. You can provide this as simply or as lavishly as you want as long as the basic requirements are met. When providing a cage you must remember he is a chewer and an excellent escape artist. He can chew through wood or soft plastic, such as the screening on top of tank cages. There are a variety of different habitats that you can choose for your hamster’s home.
Wire Cage
A wired bar cage as an excellent home. Just make certain the bars are close enough together that your hamster can’t wriggle through. Be sure that any door can be securely latched, your pet is capable of moving a sliding door with his teeth and escaping.
Aquarium
A glass aquarium with a screened top can also be used as a home. An aquarium has corners that a hamster likes, it’s high enough to add an exercise wheel, and he can’t climb glass making it almost escape proof.
A glass aquarium with a screened top can also be used as a home. An aquarium has corners that a hamster likes, it’s high enough to add an exercise wheel, and he can’t climb glass making it almost escape proof.
Tube Cage
Tube cages, like CritterTrail, are expandable habitat’s. With lots of interlocking tubes, wheels, lookouts, and other add-ons, the type of home you can make for your hamster is unlimited. A tube cage can be like a mini playground.
Tube cages, like CritterTrail, are expandable habitat’s. With lots of interlocking tubes, wheels, lookouts, and other add-ons, the type of home you can make for your hamster is unlimited. A tube cage can be like a mini playground.
The size of the cage depends on what type and how many hamsters you intend to own. A cage that is 15 inches long by 12 inches high is appropriate for one hamster or two dwarf hamsters. For your pet, bigger is better, so go with the biggest cage possible. The larger the cage, the happier your hamster will be.
Cage Supplies
Once you have picked out the perfect home, you need to fill it with everything he needs to have a happy and healthy life. Sources of food, water, bedding, and toys are all important to your hamster’s well being.
Once you have picked out the perfect home, you need to fill it with everything he needs to have a happy and healthy life. Sources of food, water, bedding, and toys are all important to your hamster’s well being.
Water Bottle
Your hamster will need a source of fresh water. He will fill up water dishes with whatever he can find in his cage, so a stoppered water bottle that attaches to the cage works best.
Your hamster will need a source of fresh water. He will fill up water dishes with whatever he can find in his cage, so a stoppered water bottle that attaches to the cage works best.
Food Dish
A dish for food. Hamsters prefer their food to be near the sleeping area and are hoarders. You can use food dishes, but be aware that he will quickly empty it as he constantly relocates the food.
A dish for food. Hamsters prefer their food to be near the sleeping area and are hoarders. You can use food dishes, but be aware that he will quickly empty it as he constantly relocates the food.
Bedding & Substrate
Your pet will need a bedding or substrate. They are burrowing creatures and will be much happier if they have something to burrow in. There are many commercial beddings made from wood shavings and pellets made from wood, alfalfa, pecans, sawdust, corncob, walnut, and recycled newspaper. Do not use clumping kitty litter or cedar based shavings. Hamsters eat a portion of their feces as part of their digestive process. Clumping litter can cause intestinal obstruction which could lead to your pet’s death. Aromatic oils in cedar based shavings are irritating to a hamster’s respiratory system.
Your pet will need a bedding or substrate. They are burrowing creatures and will be much happier if they have something to burrow in. There are many commercial beddings made from wood shavings and pellets made from wood, alfalfa, pecans, sawdust, corncob, walnut, and recycled newspaper. Do not use clumping kitty litter or cedar based shavings. Hamsters eat a portion of their feces as part of their digestive process. Clumping litter can cause intestinal obstruction which could lead to your pet’s death. Aromatic oils in cedar based shavings are irritating to a hamster’s respiratory system.
Sleeping Areas
Your hamster needs a sleeping area and any small container will work. This container must be big enough for ventilation and for your pet to turn around in. It should also be easy to clean or inexpensive enough to throw away and replace if it becomes soiled.
Your hamster needs a sleeping area and any small container will work. This container must be big enough for ventilation and for your pet to turn around in. It should also be easy to clean or inexpensive enough to throw away and replace if it becomes soiled.
Cleaning Cage Enrichment
Cage enrichment is the toys and items that will keep your pet busy, active, and happy. Things he will enjoy include wheels, pipes, tubes, chew blocks, wooden toys, and balls. Luckily, there are many commercially available hamster toys that will keep him happy.
It is important to clean your pet’s cage about once a week. Replace the substrate and bedding, wash the food bowls, and change the water. You can also wash other parts of the cage that smell with soapy water. Be sure to dry everything before putting items back in the cage. While cleaning, be sure to keep your hamster someplace safe to prevent escape. A trash can, deep bucket, or a bathtub with the drain plugged are good places to temporarily keep your pet.
Health & Illness
A healthy hamster is a happy pet and everyone wants a happy pet. Luckily it is quite easy to make sure your cute friend lives a long and healthy life. A proper diet, fresh water, and a nice, clean habitat, go a long way in preventing illness and injury. You want to make sure his home avoids drafts, excessive heat and dampness, as well as provides exercise and suitable hiding places. Protecting your hamster by carefully handling him and preventing a nasty fall will also keep your pet safe.
Even with quality care, a proper diet, and a wonderful habitat, injuries and illness can occur. In the event of one of these unfortunate occurrences, contacting your veterinarian is always recommended. Signs of illness may be weight loss, loss of appetite, and behavioral changes. Below is a list of the more common issues that can affect a hamster’s health.
Broken bones
For broken bones, isolate your pet and keep him in a cage without a wheel. Do not handle him and make sure you feed him a good diet with a calcium supplement. The break should hopefully heal nicely within two weeks.
For broken bones, isolate your pet and keep him in a cage without a wheel. Do not handle him and make sure you feed him a good diet with a calcium supplement. The break should hopefully heal nicely within two weeks.
Bites
Hamsters do fight with each other and a bite can be one outcome. If a bite does occur, clean the wounded area with peroxide and if the injury leads to infection, contact your veterinarian.
Hamsters do fight with each other and a bite can be one outcome. If a bite does occur, clean the wounded area with peroxide and if the injury leads to infection, contact your veterinarian.
Cheek Pouch Injuries
These injuries can occur during a fight or your hamster may find a sharp object in the cage and cut its cheek pouch.
These injuries can occur during a fight or your hamster may find a sharp object in the cage and cut its cheek pouch.
Abscesses
An abscess can happen when a wound heals over before the infection inside is gone. It can look like a swollen area and will be very tender to the touch. There can be redness of the skin and your hamster may scratch at or around the area.
An abscess can happen when a wound heals over before the infection inside is gone. It can look like a swollen area and will be very tender to the touch. There can be redness of the skin and your hamster may scratch at or around the area.
Teeth
A hamster’s front incisors are designed to rub against each other while nibbling and are suppose to wear evenly, but this doesn't always happen. The unmatched teeth can hinder eating and may grow into the roof of the mouth or cheek pouch.
A hamster’s front incisors are designed to rub against each other while nibbling and are suppose to wear evenly, but this doesn't always happen. The unmatched teeth can hinder eating and may grow into the roof of the mouth or cheek pouch.
Eyes
Hamsters do develop eye problems in response to eye injuries or infections. They can also develop cataracts.
Hamsters do develop eye problems in response to eye injuries or infections. They can also develop cataracts.
Respiratory Infections
Symptoms of respiratory infections are labored breathing, discharge from the nose and eyes, loss of appetite and weight loss.
Symptoms of respiratory infections are labored breathing, discharge from the nose and eyes, loss of appetite and weight loss.
Gastrointestinal Infections
Symptoms of gastrointestinal infections are a stained tail, diarrhea, lethargy, failure to eat or drink, irritability and ruffled hair.
Symptoms of gastrointestinal infections are a stained tail, diarrhea, lethargy, failure to eat or drink, irritability and ruffled hair.
Fungal Infections
Fungal infections are caused by damp, dirty, housing and inadequate diets.
Fungal infections are caused by damp, dirty, housing and inadequate diets.
Heatstroke
Symptoms of heatstroke are heavy breathing and the animal laying on it’s belly. A hamster can die quickly if you don’t take immediate action. Move the cage to a cool spot. Take him out of the cage and run cool water, not cold, over it’s body until it is alert and breathing has slowed. Dry it off gently and place it in a clean dry cage away from any heat to rest. To rehydrate your pet you can use an eyedropper to offer your him water or Pedialyte. Never leave your hamster’s cage by a sunny window, in your car, or an unventilated room.
Symptoms of heatstroke are heavy breathing and the animal laying on it’s belly. A hamster can die quickly if you don’t take immediate action. Move the cage to a cool spot. Take him out of the cage and run cool water, not cold, over it’s body until it is alert and breathing has slowed. Dry it off gently and place it in a clean dry cage away from any heat to rest. To rehydrate your pet you can use an eyedropper to offer your him water or Pedialyte. Never leave your hamster’s cage by a sunny window, in your car, or an unventilated room.
Breeding & Babies
Breeding & MatingTo breed your hamsters, introduce the female into the male’s cage every evening for four days during her estrus. Estrus is the period of time, usually about 12 hours long, when the female will mate with the male. The female will be receptive if she flattens her body and splays her legs when you stroke her back. Estrus occurs during the night and there may be some minor sparring and tussling between the male and female. Be ready to remove the female if she doesn’t settle down soon and appears to only want to fight with the male. It also helps if the male has an easy to get to place to hide from the female. If mating occurs, keep the pair together for several hours or even overnight.
Gestation & Litter Size
The pregnant female will appear fatter 2 to 3 weeks after mating. She may spend less time wheel running and more time eating. Pregnant females tend to become more aggressive as their due date approaches. The gestation of your hamster varies by type but expect a litter in 18 to 22 days. The hamster litter size is usually in the 4 to 6 range. It can be as few as 3 and as many as 12 depending on the type of hamster. The mother could have many babies but may not raise them all to weaning and it is possible that she may eat some of them.
The pregnant female will appear fatter 2 to 3 weeks after mating. She may spend less time wheel running and more time eating. Pregnant females tend to become more aggressive as their due date approaches. The gestation of your hamster varies by type but expect a litter in 18 to 22 days. The hamster litter size is usually in the 4 to 6 range. It can be as few as 3 and as many as 12 depending on the type of hamster. The mother could have many babies but may not raise them all to weaning and it is possible that she may eat some of them.
Birth
Nest building activity increases as does eating, grooming, and digging before giving birth. The female will seem restless and may startle easily. She stands erect as the babies (pups) are born and will sever the umbilical cord on her own. The pups are born at 10-30 minute intervals and the mother will sleep or tidy the nest area between births. The mother will then hold and clean her pups. Make sure she had adequate food and water since she will be very hungry and thirsty after the birth. Do not open the cage to look at the babies for at least two weeks. The mother may interpret this as a threat and eat their young if the cage is disturbed.
Nest building activity increases as does eating, grooming, and digging before giving birth. The female will seem restless and may startle easily. She stands erect as the babies (pups) are born and will sever the umbilical cord on her own. The pups are born at 10-30 minute intervals and the mother will sleep or tidy the nest area between births. The mother will then hold and clean her pups. Make sure she had adequate food and water since she will be very hungry and thirsty after the birth. Do not open the cage to look at the babies for at least two weeks. The mother may interpret this as a threat and eat their young if the cage is disturbed.
Babies
The babies will begin drinking water at 13-15 days of age and eating food between 16-21 days. Make sure they can reach the water bottle and the food dish. Pups huddle with each other, move around together, and eat together. They also play fight. The babies can be successfully weaned from the mother after about 3 weeks. They will be sexually mature at 6-7 weeks of age.
The babies will begin drinking water at 13-15 days of age and eating food between 16-21 days. Make sure they can reach the water bottle and the food dish. Pups huddle with each other, move around together, and eat together. They also play fight. The babies can be successfully weaned from the mother after about 3 weeks. They will be sexually mature at 6-7 weeks of age.
Sexing
Grasp the hamster firmly around the body and lift him upright and tilt his body slightly backwards. The hamster will not be fond of being in this position so he will struggle but don’t worry, you are not hurting him. Look at the genital area. Females have the genital opening and the anus close together. Males have the genital opening separated from the anus by a distance approximately equal to your forefinger. When you hold a male older than five weeks upright, the testes fall down to the edge of the body forming two distinct pale pink lumps on each side of the anus.
Grasp the hamster firmly around the body and lift him upright and tilt his body slightly backwards. The hamster will not be fond of being in this position so he will struggle but don’t worry, you are not hurting him. Look at the genital area. Females have the genital opening and the anus close together. Males have the genital opening separated from the anus by a distance approximately equal to your forefinger. When you hold a male older than five weeks upright, the testes fall down to the edge of the body forming two distinct pale pink lumps on each side of the anus.
Information taking from : http://pethamstercare.com/
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